Chef Steven Skelly, with over three decades in hospitality across the UK, Australia, and Indonesia, is renowned for his excellence in both Michelin-starred kitchens and his current roles at Motel Mexicola & Da Maria in Bali. As the owner of Farine bakery and an influential figure in the industry, Steven discusses his diverse cooking influences, challenges in managing multiple venues, and his thoughts on emerging trends. His journey highlights his ongoing creativity and impact in the culinary world.
Can you share a bit about your background and what inspired you to pursue a career in the industry?
Originally, I had aspirations to become either a football player or a journalist. Both seemed like thrilling paths to follow. However, as time went on, I found myself increasingly captivated by the world of food. My interest in cooking started to overshadow my other ambitions. I began spending more time experimenting in the kitchen, trying out different recipes and techniques. It quickly became clear that my true passion was in creating dishes and exploring new flavours.
This shift wasn’t instantaneous but rather a gradual realisation. I discovered that cooking wasn’t just a hobby—it was something I deeply enjoyed and excelled at. The creative process involved in preparing and presenting meals became incredibly fulfilling. This passion led me to formal training and various kitchen roles, embracing both the challenges and rewards of working in food. My transition from wanting to play football or write stories to becoming a chef has been an unexpected yet enriching journey, driven by my love for food and the endless possibilities it offers.
How did your experiences in the UK and Australia shape your approach to cooking?
Working in the UK was a real eye-opener. The harsh and demanding environment there pushed me to constantly refine my skills. The high standards and discipline expected in Michelin-starred kitchens were intense but invaluable. This experience taught me a deep respect for the craft.
In contrast, Australia’s food scene is all about innovation and fusion. The multicultural landscape encourages blending various cuisines and techniques, which inspired me to be more adventurous with flavours. The freedom to explore and integrate different culinary traditions allowed me to merge the technical rigour I learned in the UK with a creative approach prevalent in Australia.
Bali, on the other hand, presented its own unique set of dynamics. The local food culture is deeply rooted in tradition, with a focus on ingredients and methods passed down through generations. This has broadened my understanding of how food can be both nourishing and therapeutic. Working in Bali highlighted the importance of respecting local traditions while introducing new techniques. It also underscored the value of training and nurturing local staff, which has proven beneficial in maintaining high standards.
Can you tell us about your creative process when developing new dishes or menus?
My creative process is quite immersive and layered. It starts with exploring diverse cooking influences. For instance, my time in Mexico City was pivotal. I engaged deeply with local food traditions and ingredients, discovering unique elements like ants and ant larvae.
This experience taught me how traditional and unusual ingredients can enhance dishes. I also rely heavily on books and research. Reading extensively about different cuisines, techniques, historical food practices, and even history helps me innovate. Books covering various food traditions provide valuable insights and techniques that I incorporate into my work.
Once I have a concept or ingredient in mind, I move into the experimentation phase. It is where ideas come to life. For instance, I focus on perfecting dishes by testing various preparations and combinations. A good example of this is our modern take on the traditional Mexican dish, guisado or pork belly stew. Instead of braising the pork belly in the sauce, we press and skin it, then serve it in the sauce, modernising the presentation. Traditionally, this dish is served with purslane—a succulent that tends to become wilted when cooked. We serve it raw on top, preserving tradition while adding a contemporary twist. This approach retains the traditional element of the dish but modernises it with a fresh, crisp texture.
Another example of innovation involves the use of spice pastes from Yucatán. During my visits to Mexico, I discovered three distinct spice pastes—ricados blanco, negro, and rojo. These pastes are essential for braises like Cocholita, a famous braised pork dish. The black paste uses dried, almost burnt chilies, the red incorporates achiote, and the blanco is made with peppercorns and roasted garlic. Incorporating these pastes into our dishes has been a game changer, simplifying the process while adding depth to our flavours.
The Italian experience for Da Maria was particularly interesting. Although I had always made pasta, I had to learn how to make it properly for specific sauces. Traditionally, most pasta restaurants use a roller and focus on filled pastas. However, we used an extruder pasta machine, which was a game changer. This allowed us to respect tradition while finding new ways of doing things. For example, we created a modern Italian dish with braised lamb, radicchio, and a gastric sauce, which isn't traditional. We used lamb trim and a butter sauce instead of olive oil or jus, which added richness similar to a beurre blanc but kept the dish light despite the rich filling.
Pizzas presented their own challenges. Typically, certain types of pizzas like margarita and salami are the best sellers, while others may not sell as well, but you still need a variety. We experimented with ingredients like prawn and chilli, and instead of just using fresh chilli, we started fermenting it years ago before it became popular. This period was full of innovation, always respecting tradition. Italians are very particular, and deviating too much from tradition can lead to criticism. For example, I had online debates about the right way to make carbonara, with some people insisting on very precise ratios of egg yolks. You encounter these kinds of conflicts often, but they are part of the creative process.
With Mexican cuisine for Mexicola, it’s crucial to study the different regions and their unique methods. For instance, Mexicola Canggu, I aimed to differentiate between two restaurants by focusing on regional characteristics. In Mexicola Seminyak, which is more akin to a bustling city like Mexico City, the cuisine is a melting pot of influences. In contrast, Tulum, a peninsula surrounded by rainforests, had a more isolated food culture. This isolation meant that initially, only local ingredients were used. However, with Spanish colonisation, new ingredients like pigs and cacao were introduced, adding complexity and diversity to the local cuisine.
In working with Mexican food, I aim not to reinvent but to modernise and refine traditional dishes. This might involve experimenting with different cuts or presentation styles to improve texture and visual appeal. For example, learning the nuances of salsa making, from the characteristic smokiness of burnt chilies to the simplicity of grilled chilies with sour orange juice, has been enlightening. Despite common perceptions, traditional Mexican dishes aren't necessarily very spicy, and there’s much more depth to explore.
Even with extensive experience, there’s always more to learn. For instance, I once served Chiles en Nogada, a traditional Mexican festive dish, with a hot sauce, only to learn later that the sauce is typically served cold. Such experiences highlight the ongoing learning process and the importance of understanding traditional practices.
Lastly, Collaboration with my team is key. I share ideas, gather feedback, and refine dishes to meet our standards and guest expectations. My goal is to create innovative yet practical dishes that offer exciting experiences.
As a chef managing multiple venues, how do you maintain consistency and quality across different restaurants?
Maintaining consistency and quality across multiple venues is indeed challenging. I focus on training and developing my team, particularly my Indonesian staff, who are integral to our operations. Thorough training encompasses both cooking techniques and understanding the ethos of our restaurants.
Regular visits to each location are crucial for monitoring operations, tasting dishes, and providing feedback. This hands-on approach helps uphold high standards. We also implement strict quality control measures and foster open communication among teams.
I continuously update and refine our recipes and practices based on feedback and new insights. This ongoing improvement keeps the food exciting and consistent. By building a strong team spirit and maintaining rigorous standards, we ensure that each restaurant delivers a consistent and high-quality experience.
When I started at Mexicola Seminyak, I was taken aback by how straightforward it seemed. The kitchen team was young, and the leadership was lacking. My initial role was to streamline operations, boost efficiency, and enhance food quality. While optimising the kitchen and operations was engaging and challenging, I struggled with the food. Improving existing recipes and presentations was one thing, but creating new dishes left me feeling stuck. It was like a creative block—trying to balance volume, shareability, cost-effectiveness, and authenticity while ensuring everything was delicious and well-presented was daunting.
The challenge was compounded by dealing with suppliers. For instance, we used to go through 100 kilograms of pork ribs per day. A supplier might offer a great price, but if they didn’t have sufficient stock or couldn’t reorder, it created significant issues. Building reliable relationships with suppliers was crucial to ensuring product consistency in both quality and quantity. This experience was a real trial by fire, emphasising the importance of careful menu planning and supplier management.
My first major team experience taught me a great deal about managing staffs. Initially, I had around 20 staff members at the first restaurant, and many of them are now spread across the group and our bakery. They continue to work with me daily, and their loyalty has been invaluable. Investing in their training and well-being has proven to be more effective than relying on expatriate staff. We're likely the first group in Bali to use Indonesians in senior management positions by choice, rather than as a replacement for expatriate chefs.
One challenge is that many of the staff lack extensive backgrounds in diverse cuisines or the desire to create new dishes. To address this, I constantly research and update the menu to keep them engaged and motivated. Ideally, I hope that one day they will present new dishes or recipes that impress me. In the bakery, the same approach applies—I provide training and maintain consistency while fostering a sense of family and respect. I regularly bring bakery products to the restaurant management and head office, and I ensure that bakery staff receive free meals as a token of appreciation. This synergy and sense of community help maintain high standards and loyalty across all our venues. Have you found any difficulties in sourcing quality staff, either in Bali or in your previous roles? If so, what strategies are you using to overcome this?
Sourcing quality staff has been a challenge. Back when I was in Australia, I spent my days off scouring Gumtree, looking through job ads in the section for people seeking work. I was also checking out our other recruitment channels, trying to fill my roster for the upcoming week. We ended up having to cover two sections of the service ourselves due to the staff shortage. The impact of being short-staffed is significant: workloads increase, pay doesn’t, and eventually, morale suffers. This creates a cycle where the staff shortage perpetuates itself.
At Mexicola, we’ve deliberately filled senior positions with Indonesian staff, leading to high levels of commitment and performance. To address staffing challenges, I focus on developing and nurturing local talent through comprehensive training and a supportive work environment. Regular team-building activities and a strong sense of community further contribute to staff loyalty and high performance.
I love teaching the younger kids. And that's one thing, you learn that from London. How not to train people. Yeah. You know, it's abusive. It's rough. It's horrible. People don't respond that well to it. People are a lot more sensitive these days as well, so it just doesn't work anyway. But particularly in Indonesia, if you scream at an Indonesian, whether you're right or you're wrong, they'll clam up. You won't get the best work out of them. So you learn to be a lot more patient, a lot more thorough with your teaching. I'm a much better teacher than I was before I came to Indonesia. I found myself much more thorough. For many training sessions, you know, something you don't do in London.
We conduct pre-shift briefings and provide tasting notes for staff training, something that was unheard of in London and even rare in Australia (back in the days) unless you were at the top-tier restaurants. Back then, you were shown a dish, took notes in your notebook, and learned through trial and error, often getting reprimanded for mistakes. Nowadays, we equip our staff with the tools they need to succeed. With my own kids, I can’t imagine them coming home exhausted, burnt, or injured from work, which makes me even more mindful of how we treat our staff.
Our company has a very low turnover rate because of this supportive approach. It's not just me; all our managers are conscientious about training and development. In the past, chefs would often hide their tricks and shortcuts, leaving you to piece things together on your own. We’ve changed that mentality by providing thorough and supportive training to ensure everyone has the best chance to succeed.
Sometimes, the argument is made that learning the hard way makes people tougher. While there’s some truth to that, it also often leads to them adopting those same harsh traits, turning into mean, difficult bosses themselves. If you work under that kind of pressure for long enough, you’re likely to perpetuate it. This approach has proven ineffective over time. It leads to staff not showing up for work, and sometimes disappearing altogether. I’ve seen people leave entire knife rolls behind in kitchens because they were too terrified to face another day of being yelled at.
Back in Sydney, we had a key to the change room hanging on my section, and we’d hide it if we saw someone about to run away. It’s so messed up. If someone is that desperate to leave, let them go. There’s a right way and a wrong way to leave a job, but in those days, if you didn’t leave on good terms, they’d go out of their way to make sure you didn’t get another job easily. They’d call around to other restaurants, badmouthing you, often embellishing the truth.
Fortunately, I never faced that situation myself, but I’ve seen it happen to colleagues. It’s an awful experience, both for the person leaving and those left behind. Walking out in the middle of service isn’t ideal, but it highlights just how broken the system was. We’ve come a long way from those days, focusing now on nurturing our staff rather than breaking them down.
What are some emerging trends in the hospitality industry that excite you, and how are you incorporating them into your work?
I'm excited about several emerging trends. Sustainability and reducing food waste are major focuses. We’re integrating these principles by sourcing ingredients locally and minimising our environmental impact. We experiment with using every part of an ingredient, like nose-to-tail and root-to-stem approaches.
There’s also a growing interest in authentic and unique dining experiences. People want meals that offer a story or cultural context.
Fusion cuisine is another trend that inspires me. Collaborating with chefs from different backgrounds, like our recent project with a chef from Mexico City, allows us to create innovative dishes that merge various culinary influences.
What advice would you give to young chefs entering the industry today, especially given the current challenges?
I usually give my team a heads-up that I might be direct during service. It's important to understand that it's not personal—it's about maintaining professionalism. These days, such direct feedback is rare and only happens if something goes significantly wrong. I encourage everyone to stay focused, pay attention, and keep up with the latest trends. And, of course, make sure your knife is sharp. It’s essential to put in your best effort; this isn’t a job where you can simply go through the motions.
Working in this field requires a genuine passion for cooking and a commitment to continuous improvement. It’s not just about management showing appreciation—it’s about having a deep love for the craft, the desire to work hard, and a passion for the arts. If you don’t have a love for food, this might not be the right job for you. There are other careers with better pay and conditions. But if you do love food, it’s one of the best jobs in the world—immersed in great ingredients, working with amazing people. After over 30 years in the industry, I wouldn’t change a thing, although I do wish I’d traveled more sooner. I once turned down an opportunity to work at a starred restaurant in France. At the time, I was intimidated because my French was limited to kitchen jargon and a few phrases. I regret that decision now, as it would have been an incredible experience. I've enjoyed learning Indonesian, French, and Italian, and I should have embraced that opportunity in France. Despite this, I’ve traveled more since then, and it’s all part of the journey. The restaurant in Marseille, where I could have worked, was a country house hotel, which reminded me of my first job in a luxury eight-bedroom hotel.
For young chefs entering the industry, passion is paramount. A genuine love for cooking will keep you motivated through long hours and tough conditions. Stay curious and committed to learning, as the hospitality world is ever-evolving and being open to new techniques and trends is essential. Building positive relationships with colleagues and mentors is also crucial; networking and having a supportive network can significantly impact your career. Finally, while being open to new ideas is important, staying true to your own vision and creativity will help you find your place in the industry. Balancing openness with personal authenticity is key to carving out your path.
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