Chef Philip Mowforth’s journey from a pot wash in to owning his own restaurant, Downtown is a testament to his dedication and passion. What began as an early job in a kitchen quickly evolved into a thriving career, thanks to the mentorship of a skilled chef. Now, as the owner of Downtown, Phil brings his love for Latin American flavours and innovative cooking to life. In this interview, he shares his inspiring path, insights into his creative process, and his thoughts on the challenges and trends shaping the food industry today.
Can you share a bit about your background and what led you to pursue a career in the food industry?
My journey into the food industry began when I was just 14 years old. I dropped out of school and found a job as a pot wash in Hull, England. The head chef at the time, an Albanian named Nico, noticed my eagerness and took me under his wing. Despite my young age, Nico began teaching me how to prepare vegetables, make sauces, and handle various kitchen tasks like cutting potatoes and peeling ingredients.
He introduced me to basic cooking techniques, such as making béchamel sauce, which sparked my passion for the craft. Although I started as a pot wash, I was also cooking and learning on the job. Recognising my potential and enthusiasm, the team encouraged me to attend culinary school. I balanced my time between culinary school during the day and working in the kitchen at night.
By the age of 15, I was fully immersed in the culinary world, and my career took off from there. It was through this initial pot wash role and the mentorship of Chef Nico that I discovered my love for cooking and decided this was the path I wanted to pursue.
It wasn't an apprenticeship; rather, I worked full-time while attending college full-time, which laid the foundation for my career in the food industry.
How did your experience working in Michelin-starred restaurants shape your approach to cooking and influence your career?
My experience working in Michelin-starred restaurants has been incredibly influential. The last Michelin-starred restaurant I worked at was Winterfields, a one-star establishment located in Winteringham, Lincolnshire, which is the only Michelin-starred restaurant in the area.
The rigorous training I received there was pivotal in shaping my approach to cooking. One of the key takeaways was learning how to apply the precision and skills developed in a fine-dining environment to more relaxed dining settings. At Winterfields, we worked with a set menu of ten courses, serving 30 to 50 people each time, which required meticulous attention to detail and consistency.
Translating these skills to a more casual dining environment involves adapting the same level of precision, but without the strict controls of a set menu. It’s about maintaining high standards of quality and technique while being flexible enough to cater to a broader range of dining experiences. This balance has been crucial as I transitioned to leading kitchens in different settings, including Downtown.
How was the transition from being a chef to becoming a restaurant owner?
Transitioning from being a chef to owning a restaurant at 29 was a natural progression for me, driven by my desire to have full control over my creative vision and operations. Owning my own place meant not having anyone else dictate what I could or couldn’t do, which was a major motivation for me.
I had always envisioned owning a restaurant, and this dream took shape when I lived across the road from what would become Downtown. For years, I had talked about starting my own restaurant in Kedungu, and I had a clear idea of what I wanted. When the opportunity arose, we transformed a two-bedroom house into the restaurant. The space, which was initially a home, was converted to include a large kitchen, reflecting the scale and ambition of the project.
Securing the right property and having supportive investors were crucial. The investors believed in my vision and provided the funding needed to bring it to life. This support allowed us to create custom details, like designing and making our own plates.
However, the transition from solely managing kitchens—something I was familiar with—to overseeing the entire restaurant was a significant change. It required me to think about aspects I had never considered before, like who was handling the gardening. It was a steep learning curve, but incredibly interesting and fun to learn as we went along.
Luckily, I had a strong team around me at Downtown. My manager, Carlos, who has experience from Mexico, and my girlfriend Dani, who handled all the branding and marketing, were crucial in this journey. We were a very close team, more like a family. My kitchen team from Downtown, including Rudy, Ardy, and Rastica, also came with me. These core chefs have worked with me for years and know how I like to cook, which has been a huge advantage.
Although adjusting to being relied upon by a team and managing the broader responsibilities of running a restaurant was difficult, it ultimately provided the freedom to shape my restaurant exactly as I had envisioned.
What was the inspiration behind the concept of Downtown
The concept behind Downtown was born out of a desire to have fun and experiment. We wanted to create something unique—not entirely different from what’s out there, but done our way. It was about understanding the rules, choosing to break them, and then refining our approach as we went along.
We envisioned vibrant, contrasting plates, each with its own distinct colours. Though we didn’t have a specific design in mind initially, we were determined to experiment until we found the right look. From the start, our goal was to offer high-quality Latin American cuisine. Our initial menu was entirely focused on tasting menus, featuring eight courses. While that approach was successful, we quickly realised that exclusively offering eight-course meals wasn’t sustainable, particularly in an emerging neighbourhood. Perhaps it would have worked in Canggu, but we needed to adapt.
So, we pivoted. We retained some of our signature dishes, like the gazpacho and tostada, which we had been perfecting for a while, and integrated them into a more diverse menu. We then expanded the offerings to include more accessible dishes like tacos, while still maintaining the high standards we set for ourselves.
At Downtown, everything we serve is made fresh daily. We take pride in making our tortillas from scratch, and we even make our own chipotle. We source the chilies, smoke them ourselves, rehydrate them with additional chilies and vinegar, and then incorporate them into our dishes. Unlike many restaurants that opt for the convenience of canned products, we choose to do things the hard way. And we enjoy it because we believe that doing things the right way makes all the difference and sets us apart from others.
Latin American cuisine is a significant influence in your work. What drew you to this particular food tradition, and how did your research trips across Central and South America impact your approach to cooking?
I've always been involved in French and English cuisine, particularly fine dining at a very high level. Before I came to Bali, I was working in the Caribbean for 6 months. When I arrived here, I quickly found myself immersed in Mexican cuisine, which was a bit unexpected.
At 23, I was offered a job in Bali, and I decided to take the opportunity without fully knowing what it entailed. It was at Laca Laca in Seminyak, and they were just about to open La Calita, a Mexican restaurant, which was around eight years ago.
Initially, I didn’t have a strong foundation in Mexican cuisine. I knew how to do fine dining and had plenty of ideas, but I needed more experience with Mexican flavours. Fortunately, the team supported my interest, and they sent me to Mexico for about a month and a half. There, we immersed ourselves in research and development, eating our way around the country and soaking in the vibrant food culture.
That trip was a pivotal moment for me. It deepened my understanding of Mexican cuisine, particularly how they balance spice, heat, sourness, and sweetness—all with very intense flavour profiles. This approach to food—where everything is bold and full of flavour—really resonated with me and has influenced my work ever since.
Even in the Italian and Mediterranean dishes we’re doing now, we apply the same intensity to the flavour profiles. That’s how I came to embrace Mexican cuisine; it was never something I had planned, but when the opportunity arose, I jumped at it. My approach to my career has always been to say yes to new experiences. My mom used to tell me that the worst that could happen is that it doesn’t work out, and then you just try again. That mindset led me to discover and fall in love with the complexity of Mexican cuisine, especially learning to use and balance the hundred different types of chilies. It was an incredibly exciting challenge.
Can you describe your creative process when developing new dishes or menus? How do you balance innovation with tradition?
When developing new dishes or menus, my process often begins with a specific ingredient that catches my attention. Recently, for Downtown, someone reached out to me about some high-quality monkfish they had available. That got me thinking, "What can I do with monkfish?" It reminded me of a dish I had a while back that combined laksa with monkfish, which inspired me to explore creating a soupy monkfish dish but with a Latin American twist.
From there, we started brainstorming how to bring Latin American flavours into the dish. We considered various options like pozole and massaman curry, experimenting with different chilies, swapping them in and out to find the right balance. The process is very much about trial and error. I usually run ideas by Rudy and Ardy, and sometimes they’ll tell me, "No, that's not it," and then we go back to the drawing board and try something else.
It's a creative and iterative process where we start with one ingredient, think about what could complement it, and then create a list of two or three different elements that might work. We test them out, adjust, and refine. It's all about having fun with the process. We’ll taste something and ask, "What do you think of this?" Sometimes it turns out great, other times it doesn’t. But there’s always that small percentage—maybe 5%—where the combination is truly exceptional, and that’s what we’re aiming for.
Ultimately, it’s about being open to making mistakes, because those missteps often lead to the most progress. You learn more when things don’t go as planned than when everything works out perfectly. If everything went smoothly, you might think you’ve got it all figured out, but it's through those challenges that real creativity and growth happen.
How do you go about curating your team of chefs at Downtown?
When I first arrived in Bali, I came with a fully staffed restaurant, which included my role as the executive chef at my previous job. This experience allowed me to understand how things work in Bali and Indonesia.
Ardy, for example, started as a commis chef when he was just 17 at the Ubud restaurant and has been with me across every restaurant I've worked at for the past seven years. Similarly, Rastika and Rudy joined the team. For Downtown, the staffing was relatively straightforward since I had already worked with Rudy, Ardy, Bagus, and Rastica. I asked them to bring in skilled chefs from their networks, and we gradually built the team.
To find floor staff and bar staff, we advertised in Tabanan area, conducted around 3,000 interviews before opening, and ended up hiring three bar staff and five floor staff. Managing Downtown and our other project, a ghost kitchen with three different restaurants—requires close teamwork.
My approach to team curation involves a fundamental rule: treat others how you would like to be treated. A positive atmosphere is crucial; happy chefs produce better food. Even when we face challenging services, we come together to unwind, share a drink, and relax.
I believe in cultivating a team rather than merely hiring one. Starting with a few and training them helps in creating a cohesive unit. We emphasise teamwork by having staff dinners and shared meals, where everyone contributes to preparing lunch. This practice fosters a sense of family and encourages creativity. We also rotate who makes lunch, allowing staff members from different backgrounds to share their culinary traditions, keeping the team engaged and continuously learning.
How do you see the current state of the hospitality industry in Australia/UK, especially regarding high cost inflation? How does this compare to the industry in Bali?
The current state of the hospitality industry faces challenges worldwide, and Bali is no exception. The key issue in Bali is that people still expect it to be inexpensive, despite rising costs. For instance, high-quality beef that once cost 250K to 300K IDR per kilo now costs 1.8 million IDR per kilo. Yet, from a customer's perspective, Bali is still seen as a cheap destination. At Downtown, for example, tacos are priced at 45K IDR each, which is considered quite expensive locally. However, in England, you might pay seven pounds for a taco of lower quality. Despite this difference, food costs remain similar because staff wages are considerably high.
At Downtown, our staff earn more than double the minimum wage, which impacts our profit margins. Although we can't charge the same prices as in Australia or England, our costs are comparable. For example, gas prices have nearly doubled in the past year—from 400K IDR to 950K IDR for 50 kilos—and electricity costs have also increased significantly.
In Indonesia, certain things are more challenging due to high taxes. For instance, purchasing a high-quality oven incurs a 100% tax, making it twice as expensive as it would be in England. This situation reveals that opening and operating a restaurant in Bali can be just as costly as in other countries, despite perceptions of Bali being a cheap destination.
To manage these challenges at Downtown, we offer a range of price points to cater to different budgets. We strive to create a fun and engaging atmosphere, especially since we are the only restaurant in a vast area, drawing customers from other locations like Canggu. We’re focused on building a strong community connection through events like pub quizzes and charity initiatives.
For example, we recently celebrated our first anniversary with community events and clothing swaps, where any unclaimed items are donated to charity.
Our goal is to make Downtown more than just a place to eat but a personal and welcoming space where people feel connected to us and our staff. By fostering this sense of community and personalisation, we aim to navigate the challenges of inflation and maintain a thriving establishment.
What trends in the food world excite you the most right now, and how are you incorporating them into your work at Downtown?
When it comes to food trends, predicting what will be popular in the future can be challenging. Recently, I’ve noticed a significant rise in Latin American cuisine, which has evolved from a niche offering to a major trend, particularly here in Bali. Initially, Downtown was known for its Mexican tacos, but now there’s a proliferation of Mexican restaurants in the area. Despite this, we strive to offer a unique experience.
In the UK, where I spent some time recently, I observed an increasing trend towards Asian-inspired fusions in fine dining. This is reflected in our use of ingredients like furikake's and ponzu's at Downtown.
However, rather than focusing solely on trends, our approach is to prioritise the quality of ingredients. We aim to create a dining experience that’s distinct and authentic rather than just following the latest fads. For instance, rather than sticking strictly to Mexican cuisine, we embrace the broader spectrum of Latin American flavours. This approach allows us to innovate and offer something special, like Mexican-Italian fusion dishes that you might find in Mexico City, which are unique and localised.
Ultimately, we believe in crafting a menu based on what we believe is excellent, enjoying the process, and differentiating ourselves through our creative vision. Following trends can sometimes be risky, especially if it means merely copying others. Instead, we focus on creating our own unique path and adapting based on genuine feedback and what we believe is best.
What advice would you give to aspiring chefs who want to make a mark in the industry?First, find the best restaurant you can access, whether that means physically getting there or securing a position. Fully dedicate yourself to the experience by asking as many questions as you can and ensuring that your tools, such as your knife, are always sharp and ready for use.
Approach your work with a mindset of absorption. Even if you think you know better, it’s crucial to listen carefully and follow instructions. There’s always a reason behind the guidance you receive, based on significant experience and expertise.
Travel and gain experience by working in various locations. Aim to spend at least six months at each restaurant, even if it’s not your favourite. Absorb the lessons from each place and then move on to the next opportunity.
Focus on finding restaurants that spark your interest and offer something unique. It’s not necessary for the restaurant to be the most prestigious. Understanding how others approach their work can be highly educational.
Document everything you learn. Keep thorough notes and records, using digital tools to save recipes, techniques, and ideas for future reference. This practice will help you track your progress and revisit valuable lessons.
Be receptive to new ideas, even if they seem unconventional. Your current approach might not always be the best. Be willing to try new methods and incorporate suggestions from others.
Engage with your team and superiors to discuss potential improvements. If you believe there’s a better way to handle a task, share your ideas and work together to refine the process.
Don’t be afraid to make mistakes. Every error provides an opportunity for learning and growth. It’s important to acknowledge and take responsibility for your mistakes, as they often lead to the most valuable lessons.
Where can our readers learn more about you and your work at Downtown?
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